"The silhouette is the most important thing," said costume designer Ellen Mirojnick of Oppenheimer's signature hat and suit. "I don't think there are words to describe how much I love designing menswear, and that silhouette was just a sublime one to design."
Mirojnick was speaking to a rapt student audience in a packed Gutstein Galley during the SCAD Savannah Film Festival panel "Artisans: Craft and Character Through Costume Design." Her insights revealed how costuming is a key to character.
"Until his death, Oppenheimer's silhouette was always the same," she said. "He was a man who always wanted to be presented as handsome and wearing fine clothes. Maybe that happens with men when they discover it's easier to look a particular way. His was a very forward-thinking silhouette."
Mirojnick (also known for The Greatest Showman, The Knick) was joined by fellow in-demand costume designers Charlese Antoinette Jones (Air, Nanny, Judas and the Black Messiah), Rudy Mance (American Fiction, The Watcher, The Alienist) and Trish Summerville (The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds & Snakes, Mank), on a panel moderated by Variety Senior Artisans Editor Jazz Tangcay. Their costume-centric discussion ranged from lavish period pieces to contemporary epics.

Film Fest guests (l-r) Tangcay, Jones, Mance, Mirojnick, and Summerville all love a stylish silhouette.
"If anything existed after 1984, it wasn't allowed in [Air]," said Jones of the sports drama set during Michael Jordan's rookie season. "That pertained to Nike sneakers and sportswear, and other clothing as well. If there was an older person in a scene, their clothes leaned more towards ‘70s style, and any young person, they were more current, with looks from '83-'84. It was a lot of suiting, which I love."
Earlier in the week, writer and director Cord Jefferson won the Breakthrough Director Award at a screening of his debut feature, American Fiction. Costume designer Mance said: "Cord and I have been best friends for at least fifteen years. About a year and a half ago he called me and said, ‘Baby boy, our dream's comin' true, they're letting me make a movie and you're going to costume design it.'" Mance described Jefferson's clear mandate for the movie: "Dress the family like old money."
Summerville spoke about the new blockbuster installment of the Hunger Games and revisiting the franchise ten years after the original hit film. "It's a completely different time now, we're sixty-four years in the past. We're seeing President Snow at eighteen years old. So how do we want to show this bold world, the future-past? Our fanbase loves the gluttonous Capitol, but we scaled that back to show what America looked like in the '40s and ‘50s and how people dressed properly. That meant creating a whole new silhouette and color palette and controlling the environment a lot more."
When Tangcay opened up the floor for a Q&A, there was no lack of smart requests from students. In turn, the panelists addressed challenges including compiling valuable research, communicating effectively with directors, the mutable role of archival costume houses, and what they do with their precious time off.
"As designers, we all work singularly, we don't work together, so when we see each other in a hallway and wave, that's about the extent of it," Mirojnick said. "When we're not working, we can have lunch, dinner—and come together panels like this one—social things that actually make our lives full."
Full of love—at the SCAD Savannah Film Festival.

Costume designer Charlese Antoinette Jones shines at the SCAD Savannah Film Festival 2023!
Oppenheimer image courtesy Universal Pictures / Everett Collection